how to germinate mapel tree seeds

The real "secret" to germinating maple tree seeds is to use fresh seeds. This article will reveal to you the tips to yield nearly 100% germination rates.

Steps

1. 
   1
   Get fresh, new season seeds either by picking them up off the ground under a tree or purchasing them online.
2. 
   2
   Allow the seeds to stratify. Stratification is the scientific term used to describe allowing the seed to experience an extended period of cold for at least 90-120 days – as if the seed has been through a winter period after falling naturally off the tree.
3. 
   3
   Store the seeds in a zipper bag for at least 90-120 days in the refrigerator.
4. 
   4
   Look at the seeds from time to time and make sure they are not becoming dry. If needed, add a drop or two of water, every few weeks, so that the seeds do not dry out.
5. 
   5
   Use a fungicide very sparingly. If you see mold develop treat with a fungicide, following the manufacturer's directions, or use a weak solution of bleach (1 part bleach to 10 parts water).
6. 
   6
   At the end of the period of cold storage, the seeds should germinate naturally in the zipper bag in the fridge.
7. 
   7
   Transplant the seedlings as they germinate, planting the emerging rootlet in a seed compost. A coir (coconut husk) growing medium works well.
8. 
   8
   An alternative method is to plant the seeds in a pot immediately after they fall from the tree. Use approximately ten seeds in a 25 centimeter (9.8 in) pot. This is because not all of them will sprout. Leave the pot in an area where it will get normal rainfall and snowfall. If it starts to get too dry you may want to water it. That fall or the next spring you should have some seedlings sprout.

how to grow clematis seeds

Clematis is a favorite flowering vine for many gardeners, combining beautiful shapes and colors with a very long life-span. Unfortunately, clematis can be very expensive to purchase from the store and difficult to propagate without a little know-how. With the right preparations, however, you'll be set to germinate fresh clematis seeds or to produce clematis plants from cuttings in no time.

Understand the germination process. It is true that germinating seeds is typically straight-forward, but clematis are particularly high maintenance and require loads of attention and care in order to propagate from seed. Amazingly, it takes between 12-36 months for clematis seeds to germinate. Hybrid seeds take much longer than cultivars, meaning that you’ll likely be waiting nearly three years for your hybrid seeds to sprout. Keep this in mind going into your clematis project, and you’ll likely have quite a bit of time to wait before finally planting your clematis.
    You’ll need to give your seeds attention on an almost daily basis in order for them to sprout eventually.
    You’ll have a better chance of your clematis sprouting if you plant multiple seeds at once.

Get your materials ready. In addition to their long germination period, clematis seeds also require strict growing conditions. It is vital that all of your materials are sterilized and prepared for the sole purpose of planting your clematis. You’ll need seed trays, horticultural disinfectant, sterilized seedling planting mix, clean glass, and water for moistening the soil. Use your disinfectant to clean your seed trays and glass, otherwise you run the risk of infecting your fragile seeds with disease.

Collect your seeds. If you’re not purchasing your seeds from the store, you’ll have to identify and collect viable seeds from an existing clematis. To do so, wait until the seed heads (the fluffy/furry part of the flower) turns brown and the seeds are exposed, as this means that the seeds have fully ripened and dried out. Gently remove them from the seed head, and store them in a dry, cool area.
    Don’t place seeds in a plastic bag, as moisture can build up inside and cause the seeds to rot. Instead, put them in a paper bag or compartment.
    Keep in mind that the seeds from a hybrid clematis will not form flowers that look like the parents.

Prepare your seed trays. After you’ve sterilized your seed trays, fill them with the sterilized seedling potting mix. This typically has very little soil and is mainly a mixture of peat moss, perlite, and vermiculite, making it easy for the seeds to sprout. Fill the seed trays about ¾ of the way full with the mixture, and thoroughly wet it with water.

 Plant your seeds. Place each of your seeds individually in each seed tray, on top of the potting mixture. When all your seeds have been placed, cover them up with about ⅛-inch of potting mixture or sand. Water the seeds heavily so the soil is damp but not soaking, and then place your glass over the seeds. The glass will help keep the humidity and temperature high, which is preferable for germinating clematis seeds.

 Move your seeds to the best location. The seeds will do best when placed in a shady location with a temperature between 60–70 °F (16–21 °C). When winter comes around, you should allow the seeds to go through a natural freeze/frost cycle, which will strengthen them. Place them in a shaded area outdoors during the winter to promote this cycle.[1]

 Maintain your seeds. As the months progress, you’ll need to take careful care of your seeds so that they germinate, rather than drying out or rotting. Make sure that the potting mixture you planted them in is always moist, and remove the glass for a few hours each day to prevent too much moisture from building up and causing the seeds to rot.

Wait for the seeds to sprout. As aforementioned, the specific amount of time it will take for your seeds to sprout will vary greatly on the type of clematis you’ve planted. There are two sets of leaves you should be paying attention for on your seedling: the first set, and the true set. The first set, also called the ‘seed leaves’, is the first pair of leaves that grow from the seed. The second set of leaves are called the ‘true leaves’, and are the signal that your seeds are ready to be planted outdoors.

 Transplant your seedlings. When the true leaves appear, you’ll need to transplant your seedlings. You can choose to relocate them to a larger pot, or to plant them outdoors. Either way, carefully move them to their new location, being sure not to damage their delicate roots. If you choose to move them outdoors, you’ll need to harden them off by placing them in their pots outside for a few hours every day. Doing this for 1-2 weeks will help to prepare the clematis for the environmental conditions outdoors.[2]

Prepare your supplies. As with germinating clematis’ from seeds, propagating clematis from cuttings requires quite a bit of preparation and the proper materials. You’ll need a very sharp knife or pair of gardening shears, horticultural disinfectant, 6-inch planters, disinfected potting mixture, fungicide mix, rooting hormone powder, plastic bags, and straws/stakes of some sort to create mini ‘greenhouses’. Begin by using your disinfectant to clean your knife/shears, planting pots, and the stakes/straws you are using.

Take your cutting. Use your knife or gardening shears to make a single clean cut through an existing clematis plant. Cut a vine/branch that is at least 3-feet long, severing the plant just above a set of leaves and below the next node up on the stem. If you can, try to take your cutting from the center of the vine rather than the base or the tip, as this has the highest likelihood of sprouting. Continue to separate your cutting out into smaller sections for planting, by cutting just above a leaf node.

Carefully prepare your cuttings for planting. If you want your cuttings to sprout, it is imperative that you very carefully follow the directions for using your fungicide and rooting hormone mixtures. Start by dunking each of your cuttings in the fungicide mixture, following the directions that came with the mix. Then, dip the ends of each cutting in the rooting hormone mix, being careful to get just the right amount. Adding too much of the rooting hormones can prevent growth, which is not what you want. Finish by cutting each leaf in half; this will reduce moisture loss.

Plant your cuttings. Fill each of your pots with your disinfected soil mixture so that they are about ¾ of the way full. Bury the tips of each of the cuttings so that the joint of the leaves are level with the topsoil. Give them a light watering so the soil is damp, and label the pot if applicable.

Increase the humidity. Clematis cuttings will thrive in a slightly humid environment, which you can easily create with a few household materials. Stick 3-4 straight straws or bamboo stakes into each container, and place a plastic bag over the top. Make sure that the bag is not touching the plant at all, and give the soil a good watering. Once a day, flip the bag inside out to let excess moisture out and to prevent rotting.

Move the cuttings to the best location. It will take 6-8 weeks for your cuttings to start growing, and in the meantime they should be placed under the best growing conditions possible. Relocate the potted plants to a place that has plenty of ambient sunlight, but is mainly shaded, with a temperature between 60–70 °F (16–21 °C).
 Maintain your cuttings. Although your cuttings may sprout in 6-8 weeks, they likely won’t be ready to be planted outdoors for about a year. During this time, water them regularly so that the soil is kept moist at all times, and continue removing and replacing your plastic bag ‘greenhouse’ to keep the humidity up.

fly trap seeds instructions

Fresh Dionaea Muscipula Seed

Fresh Venus Flytrap seed, only a few weeks to a few months old, will typically begin to germinate in 13-18 days when kept moist and warm, and germination will continue for several weeks (perhaps 2-5 weeks after the first seed germinates) until the majority of seeds have germinated, with a few waiting days or even weeks longer to germinate.

Older Dionaea Muscipula Seed

If stored well, Venus Flytrap seed that is one, two or even three years old can still germinate fairly well (a fairly high percentage of the seed will still germinate) or acceptably, but may require from 15-25 days for the first seeds to germinate, and an additional 3-8 weeks after that for the majority of seed to germinate (of those that actually will germinate). In general, the older the seed, the fewer seeds will germinate, the longer it will take for the first seed to germinate, and the longer the period of time will be for the seeds that will germinate to do so.
If Venus Flytrap seed is not stored well, the germination rate and speed can drop substantially or even drastically. Because the seeds of Venus Flytraps are so tiny with such a thin seed coat (outer surface) it’s easier for them to dry than the larger seeds of other plants, and Venus Flytrap seeds that dry out too much won’t germinate well or at all. (see “Soak Venus Flytrap Seeds” below).

Buy Seeds from a Knowledgeable, Reputable Source

Many people who sell Venus Flytrap seeds are only dealers, not growers. They merely bought the seed from someone else in order to divide those seeds into smaller lots and sell them at a higher price. Many of these dealers may not even know how to grow Venus Flytraps or how to encourage the germination of the seed they sell. In addition, they may have no idea how to store the seed successfully for maximum germination rate, to keep the seed as fresh as possible for the longest time. The Venus Flytrap seed you buy from these vendors may be several to many years old, and few of them might germinate.
If you can’t produce your own Venus Flytrap seed or don’t want to do so, fresh seed can be bought from commercial vendors online. For a better chance of success, buy seed from people who actually grow the Venus Flytraps from which the seed is harvested, people who know how to grow and care for Venus Flytraps whether adult or seedling.

How to Prepare Dionaea Muscipula Seed

No Stratification

Stratification, the process of simulating a winter by placing the seeds in moist and cold conditions for a few weeks or months (such as folded inside a wet paper towel that is placed inside a plastic bag, then stored inside a refrigerator for some weeks) can help the seeds of fall-blooming plants to germinate (but not Venus Flytraps). The seeds of many plants that bloom in the Fall are accustomed to wait through a cool or cold winter season before germinating in Spring. When grown in artificial conditions, such seeds are often prepared for germination by stratifying them.
However, Venus Flytraps are not fall-blooming plants and Venus Flytrap seeds do not need to be stratified. Venus Flytraps bloom in Spring and produce their seed in early to mid Summer. The seed is accustomed to germinate within days after it falls from the plant in nature, during the Summer of the same year, without waiting through an intervening cool or cold winter season before sprouting. Stratification therefore is not necessary nor desirable for the seeds of Dionaea muscipula, the Venus Flytrap.

Soak Venus Flytrap Seed

Although very fresh Venus Flytrap seeds need no special preparation and can be sown immediately, seed that is more than a few weeks or months old, or the age of which is unknown, should be soaked first in pure water, which helps to rehydrate the seed and improve its potential for germination. This is especially important for seed that is more than one year old. Simply soak the seed in water for up to several days, until most of the seeds sink when the water is stirred (older, dry seed often floats). The seeds can be removed from the water either by using an eyedropper, or by emptying most of the water, then pouring the seeds and remaining water onto an absorbent surface such as a folded paper towel, or pouring it through
a porous material through which the water will pass but the seeds will not (again, a folded paper towel works well for this).

When to Plant Venus Flytrap Seed

Many people ask whether it’s alright to plant Venus Flytrap seed during the colder months of the year when most Venus Flytraps are resting in their yearly dormancy, and in artificial conditions of controlled temperature and light (indoors or in a greenhouse). The answer is yes. Venus Flytrap seedlings can wait for eight months to a year and a half before synching with the seasons and expecting or wanting to lapse into their first dormancy, so it’s alright and even advantageous, for the plants, to begin to grow Venus Flytrap seedlings in the Fall, Winter or early Spring. Because Venus Flytrap seedlings grow so slowly, sowing and germinating the seed early allows them to grow and develop to a greater extent than they would normally be able to achieve during their first season in their natural
environment. So it’s alright to sow Venus Flytrap seeds at any time of the year, if conditions can be controlled enough to prevent freezing, keep the seeds and seedlings warm enough to grow well, and provide enough light.

Germination of Venus Flytrap Seeds

Although the seeds of Venus Flytraps are very tiny (about 1 millimeter, less than 1/16 inch in length), Venus Flytraps are easy to germinate and grow from seed. A seed will germinate in as few as 10-13 days (in warm, moist conditions) to as long as 2-4 weeks or more in cooler or more variable conditions. A Venus Flytrap can grow from seed to maturity in 2-4 years. During the first year the plant will be tiny, but although the traps will be typically only 1-4 millimeters in length at that time, they are fully functional, often catching very small insects such as fungus gnats that emerge from the soil.

To germinate Venus Flytrap seeds, there are a few things to consider and remember:

• Stratification or no? — No, not for Venus Flytrap seed. Stratification is the process of keeping seeds cold and damp for several weeks or months, and for Fall-blooming plants stratification can simulate a winter for the seeds, which are used to germinating the following Spring. But Venus Flytraps bloom in the Spring, not the Fall, and their seeds do not need to be stratified. Instead Venus Flytrap seeds are accustomed to germinate within days (usually 13-25 days) after they fall to the ground during the summer, the rate and speed of germination increasing with warm temperatures. Therefore, Venus Flytrap seeds should not be stratifed, although if they are not sowed immediately they can be stored in a small bag or vial in the refrigerator
  to help them remain fresh longer and increase germination when sowed at a later date.
• Soak the seed — Although fresh seed (no more than a few months old) can be sowed without pre-soaking the seed, the germination rate of older seed can be greatly improved by pre-soaking the seed. Place the seeds in pure water (distilled, rain or reverse-osmosis water, not tap water). Older seed that has become dehydrated (has dried to some extent) will float. Soak the seed until most of the seeds sink rather than float, soaking for up to several days if necessary. The seeds can be separated from the water either by pouring the water onto an absorbent surface (such as a folded paper towel) or through a porous surface (like a folded paper towel). Soaking is especially important if you have doubts about how fresh or old the seed may be, as many sellers don’t say. Soaking
  Venus Flytrap seed is an important first step to produce the best germination possible. Expect seed that is more than a year old to take at least a few more days to germinate than fresh
  seed would, despite rehydration, but even seed that is two or more years old can have a surprising germination rate if the seed is pre-soaked before sowing.
• What kind of soil? — The “soil” should be a growing medium similar to one used for adult Venus Flytraps: a very low-nutrient mix based on sphagnum peat moss, with other ingredients such as silica sand or perlite optionally added. No “potting soil” (usually has nutrients added) and no Miracle-Gro brand because they enrich their sphagnum peat moss and perlite with plant food. My favorite mix is 50% by volume of sphagnum peat moss (which is dark brown; not light-brown long-fiber sphagnum moss) to 50% silica sand (not beach nor river nor children’s sandbox “play sand”).What about coir instead of sphagnum peat moss? Although desalinated coir can be used in a growing mix for reasonably mature or adult Venus Flytraps, using coir for germinating and the initial growing of Venus Flytrap seedlings (instead of a traditional sphagnum peat based medium) can be problematic. Coir is so spongy and springy that after watering, the mass of growing medium heaves upward as it dries, especially near the top surface, and often partially uproots tiny Venus Flytrap seedlings or makes it difficult for them to establish their first roots.
• Do not bury the seed — However, it’s OK to gently press the seed into the surface of the growing medium with a thumb or finger, or to sift a little fine dust of sphagnum peat moss (ground between the fingers, for example) onto the growing medium to settle around the seeds, to help retain moisture and keep the emerging root from drying out and becoming calloused and stunted. This also helps give the seed something to push against as the root emerges and seeks to dig itself into the medium instead of merely pushing itself along the soil surface, but it is not strictly necessary.

• Water — Use only rain water or distilled water (or reverse-osmosis water). To water the seeds, use a spray bottle to gently wet the soil surface or continue to spray to saturate the medium until some water drains out, or water from below, allowing the soil to suck water upward through the drain holes from a tray or bowl of water. While germinating seed the soil should be fairly moist. Later when the plants begin to grow well the water content should be lowered and the plants allowed to have more air and less water in the soil. Venus Flytraps, once they are past the tiny seedling stage, grow very healthy in just moist rather than soggy or saturated soil, although care must be taken so that the soil never completely dries out.
• Heat — Yes, keep the seeds and growing container warm. A temperature above 78 degrees Fahrenheit or fluctuating up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (24-32 or more degrees Celsius/Centigrade) will greatly help to stimulate more rapid germination and early healthy growth.
• Keep moist and avoid direct sunlight — Don’t allow the soil surface to dry out completely, and try to keep humidity high during germination, although it can be lowered once the plants are growing. If you live in a dry climate, it helps to germinate Venus Flytraps in a covered container. A disposable plastic food storage container makes a fine germination chamber. Cut or punch holes in the top for heat escape and air circulation, and poke some tiny holes in the bottom of the container to drain excess water. Place some growing medium inside (an inch or two (4-8 centimeters) in depth), sprinkle the seeds on top, and moisten thoroughly. Lift the lid of the container at least once a day and fan the air for a change of fresh air. The germination chamber should not be placed in direct sunlight because it will overheat both the air and soil inside and may damage or kill the seeds and germinating plants. Bright indirect light is best. Alternatively, the seeds may be sown in any regular pot or planting container, and temporarily covered with a clear plastic bag in indirect light. As with the germination chamber mentioned above, it is important to keep any covered container out of direct sunlight because of the rapid buildup of heat inside or beneath the covering, which can literally bake and kill seeds and seedlings. Once most of the seeds have germinated (within 4-6 weeks) the covering can be permanently removed and the seedlings then placed in direct sunlight.

• How long to wait? — Be patient. The freshest seed, sown only days or a few weeks after harvest, can often begin to germinate in as little as 10-13 days. Older seed usually takes 15-20 days or more before it begins to germinate, and seed that is more than a year old may require 25-days or more, and the germination rate (percentage of seeds that sucessfully germinate) is usually reduced as the seeds age. Soaking the seeds in water for a day or two before sowing, as mentioned above, can help to rehydrate dry, old seed and increase its germination rate. Warmth greatly increases the speed of germination of Venus Flytrap seeds. When the growing medium and air around the seeds are somewhat warmer than most humans find comfortable, seeds often germinate more quickly. Don’t give up
  too soon, and don’t let the soil surface dry and kill a newly emerging root from a just-germinated seed!
• Transplant — If grown in a germination container, Flytraps can be transplanted after germination to a more permanent home, uncovered. The best stage to transplant them (this is merely my own preference) is after 2-3 weeks of growth in the germination container, when the cotyledons (the two first leaves, the “seed leaves”) are almost fully extended out of the seed and the first tiny true trap leaf is forming. At this stage the plant has a base and tiny root that can be transplanted, which helps to anchor the plant in its new growing medium and helps it to adapt to conditions of lesser humidity and more light. An easy way to transplant is to use a moist wooden toothpick. Poke a tiny hole in the new home of the plant, gently dig the plant with the tip of the toothpick, transfer
  the plant to the tiny hole in its new growing container and gently orient it properly (leaves up, base and root down) then very gently settle it into the new hole with the toothpick or a very light touch of a finger.
• Storing seeds — To store excess seed for later germination, place them in a small plastic bag or–if very fresh–in a paper envelope inside a plastic bag, and store them in the refrigerator. Keeping them cold helps prevent them from trying to germinate prematurely (warmth stimulates germination) and helps keep them fresh, and keeping them from drying out too much keeps them fresh longer and keeps their germination rate (percentage) higher. Placing them in a plastic bag and squeezing out most of the excess air keeps the seeds from drying out too much, and placing them in a paper envelope helps overly-moist fresh seed to dry just a little and keeps them from developing mold in long term storage. The plastic bag enclosing the paper envelope keeps them from drying out too much.
  If harvesting your own seed, allow them to dry in a small open container for 2-3 days before storage in the refrigerator.
• Anything else? HAVE FUN! — Venus Flytraps are very interesting to watch grow from seed. Most Venus Flytraps that are available for sale are tissue cultured (micropropagated), but seed grown plants are all different: each is genetically unique, one of a kind, with the potential to be a special plant.

pineberry seeds grow instructions

How to Grow pineberry from the Seed

Here is an adventurous way to grow pineberries!

pineberries are hardy perennials, but the plants become less robust after about three years. Start your strawberries from seed, and then propagate by cuttings and runners.  Follow along with this handy How to Grow Pineberries from Seeds guide and grow some sweetness.!

Difficulty
Challenging
Season & Zone
Exposure: Full sun
Zone: 5-9

Timing
Sow indoors in the winter. An earlier start may result in berries the first year. Start any time between December and the beginning of February. After that time, they will still work, but you will not harvest berries during the first season. Transplant out at least 3 weeks after last frost.

Starting
Germination is the trickiest aspect to growing pineberries. Be patient, and try the tricks below.
Tuck your pineberry seed packet inside a sealed plastic bag or airtight container and place in your freezer for 3-4 weeks. When you remove the bag or container, do not break the seal until it (and its living contents) have reached room temperature. This may take several hours. Err on the side of caution. Opening the package too quickly may result in water condensing on the cold seeds, and this will reduce your chances of success.
Once the sealed package has “thawed” to room temperature, you’re ready to plant. Sow the seeds on the surface of pre-moistened, sterilized seed starting mix in trays or small containers. Place these on a piece of felt or other thick cloth that has its end sitting in water. The idea is to wick up water from below so that the seedling medium stays constantly and evenly damp until germination.
Keep your seeded trays under bright fluorescent lights at a constant temperature of 18-24°C (65-75°F). Germination may take anywhere from 7 days to 6 weeks. Be patient. Once germination occurs, increase ventilation around your plants to prevent damping off.
Once your seedlings have their third true leaf, they can be transplanted into their own pots. Be sure to harden your seedlings off carefully and gradually before transplanting outside.

Growing
Space transplants 60cm (24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Everbearing varieties (such as ours) tend to produce fewer runners, and will produce more fruit if the runners are removed. In the first year of growth, it may be preferable to encourage runners, and let them fill in the spaces between transplants with new offspring plants.
Grow strawberries in a well-drained, sandy loam that has been generously dug with organic matter such as finished compost or well-rotted manure. Dig ¼ cup complete organic fertilizer into the soil beneath each transplant. Keep soil moist, but not soggy. A mulch of straw around plants may help prevent the soil from drying out.

Companion Planting
These little plants respond strongly to nearby plants. Couple them with beans, borage, garlic, lettuce, onions, peas, spinach, and thyme. Avoid Brassicas and fennel.

strawberry seeds grow instructions

How to Grow Strawberry from the Seed

Here is an adventurous way to grow strawberries!

Strawberries are hardy perennials, but the plants become less robust after about three years. Start your strawberries from seed, and then propagate by cuttings and runners.  Follow along with this handy How to Grow Strawberries from Seeds guide  and grow some sweetness.!

Difficulty
Challenging
Season & Zone
Exposure: Full sun
Zone: 5-9

Timing
Sow indoors in the winter. An earlier start may result in berries the first year. Start any time between December and the beginning of February. After that time, they will still work, but you will not harvest berries during the first season. Transplant out at least 3 weeks after last frost.

Starting
Germination is the trickiest aspect to growing strawberries. Be patient, and try the tricks below.
Tuck your strawberry seed packet inside a sealed plastic bag or airtight container and place in your freezer for 3-4 weeks. When you remove the bag or container, do not break the seal until it (and its living contents) have reached room temperature. This may take several hours. Err on the side of caution. Opening the package too quickly may result in water condensing on the cold seeds, and this will reduce your chances of success.
Once the sealed package has “thawed” to room temperature, you’re ready to plant. Sow the seeds on the surface of pre-moistened, sterilized seed starting mix in trays or small containers. Place these on a piece of felt or other thick cloth that has its end sitting in water. The idea is to wick up water from below so that the seedling medium stays constantly and evenly damp until germination.
Keep your seeded trays under bright fluorescent lights at a constant temperature of 18-24°C (65-75°F). Germination may take anywhere from 7 days to 6 weeks. Be patient. Once germination occurs, increase ventilation around your plants to prevent damping off.
Once your seedlings have their third true leaf, they can be transplanted into their own pots. Be sure to harden your seedlings off carefully and gradually before transplanting outside.

Growing
Space transplants 60cm (24″) apart in rows 90-120cm (36-48″) apart. Everbearing varieties (such as ours) tend to produce fewer runners, and will produce more fruit if the runners are removed. In the first year of growth, it may be preferable to encourage runners, and let them fill in the spaces between transplants with new offspring plants.
Grow strawberries in a well-drained, sandy loam that has been generously dug with organic matter such as finished compost or well-rotted manure. Dig ¼ cup complete organic fertilizer into the soil beneath each transplant. Keep soil moist, but not soggy. A mulch of straw around plants may help prevent the soil from drying out.

Companion Planting
These little plants respond strongly to nearby plants. Couple them with beans, borage, garlic, lettuce, onions, peas, spinach, and thyme. Avoid Brassicas and fennel.

how to grow lemon seeds

How to Grow Lemon Trees from Seed

Method 1 of 2: Warm water and compost

Slice the lemon in half. Pick out the seeds. Just be warned––they are slippery! Use a paper towel to dry the seed, wiping off as much flesh as possible to prevent rot.

Fill a glass with warm water. Place the seeds in it and leave the glass in a warm place for a day. Get another paper towel and dry the seed. The seeds should be soaked for a day in warm water to remove the rest of the flesh from the seed.

Get a pot full of compost. With a pencil, make a hole about half an inch to an inch deep and simply drop in the seed. Cover lightly with compost.

Give the seed a water and place in a warm sunny spot. You should see a sprout in a month to two months.
Method 2 of 2: "Baggie" sprouting

Husk the lemon seeds. Peel the other white layer off to reveal a brown-colored seed.

Peel the brown seed cover off as well.

 Put the seeds on a moist towel. Don't use a wet one.

Put the damp towel containing the seeds in a plastic bag. Leave it in a warm place with lots of sun.

 

how to grow chilli seeds

How to Grow Chillies

 Prepare the seeds. To help make the coating of the seed easier for the new growth to penetrate, you can soak the seeds to soften them up. Fill a bowl with lukewarm water, and place the seeds inside the bowl. Allow them to soak for a full 24 hours, and then strain them from the water and lay them out to dry. Wait to plant them until they have dried completely, typically after 10-12 hours.
 If you want a bit more help in speeding up the germination process, soak the seeds in room temperature chamomile tea instead of plain water.

 Plant the seeds in small containers. You can purchase seed trays for your seedlings, or you can simply use individual planting pots for each seed. Fill each small tray or container with your soil (already amended with fertilizer and compost). Then, place a single seed about ½ an inch below the surface of the soil in each container.

Water the seeds. Seeds will need to be watered on a daily basis, so that the soil is kept moist at all times. Give seeds the biggest water after first planting, and then continue adding about a teaspoon of water daily after that.

Place them in a location with heat and sunlight. If you’ve planted seeds before, you may have a heat lamp on hand; heat lamps are perfect for aiding your seeds in growing quickly. If not, place your seeds in a location that gets plenty of sunlight, like a south facing window, and lots of heat, like near a radiator. Just be careful the seeds are neither too hot nor too cold, as both will result in little to no growth.

 Watch for the seeds to sprout. It will take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks for the seeds to first sprout. The seeds will sprout a pair of leaves to start, known as ‘seed leaves’. After a bit, a second pair of leaves will sprout; these are known as the ‘true leaves’ and signals that the chillies are ready for transplanting. You can continue waiting for them to grow and for the heat outdoors to rise, or you can plant them as is when their true leaves come in.

Harden off your seedlings. Seeds that are grown indoors are used to a constant temperature with little fluctuation; when they are introduced into the ‘wild’, they can experience a bit of shock from the varying temperatures, moisture levels, and changing sunlight. Harden them off by placing their pots or trays outdoors for a few hours every day. Start at only 2 hours a day for about a week, and then add one hour to each additional day they are placed outdoors until they can stand being outside for a full 24 hours. At this point, they can handle being planted outside without fear of shock.

Plant at the right time. Wait to plant outdoors until after the last frost of the spring, typically around March or April depending on your local weather. Plant on a sunny day in the late morning or early afternoon when it’s not too hot, so as to avoid transplant shock

Dig your holes. Chillies should be planted individually to avoid crowding, even if you are planting seeds directly outdoors. Dig small holes slightly larger than your seed or root ball using a garden trowel. These should be spaced about 1 foot (0.3 m) apart, but depending on the type of chilli you’re planting the spacing may need to be greater. Research the chillies you’re growing to find out the perfect spacing conditions for your plant.

 Plant your chillies. Place each chilli plant or seed into the holes you've dug. Replace the soil over the top of each, so that only about ½ inch of soil is on top of the roots or seeds. Don’t tamp or press down on the soil too much when you’re finished, as the chillies will grow better in loose, well-draining soil.

 Water the chillies. Chillies will thrive when their soil is moist, but not soaking wet. After the first planting, give the chillies a bit of extra water to avoid transplant shock. Then, water them on a daily basis so that the soil is damp. If you’re growing sweet peppers, you can make them even sweeter by giving them more water than usual.

Maintain the plants. It will take a month or longer before the chillies begin flowering and bearing fruit, so you will need to maintain their health during this time. Pull out any weeds that you encounter, as these will steal space and nutrients from your chillies over time if you leave them. Incorporate compost and potassium fertilizer into the soil on a monthly basis to keep the nutrient levels high. You can also add a layer of mulch to the top of the soil, to lock in moisture and block out weeds.

 Harvest your chillies. Time to harvest will vary between species of chillies, but you can generally tell when they’re ready by their size. Chillies will change colours, so unless you have a clear idea of what colour the ripe chilli will be, don’t rely on colour as an indicator of ripeness. If you’re questioning whether a chilli is ripe for picking, give it a taste! You’ll know whether it needs to continue growing for a bit longer, or if it’s ready to make a debut in your kitchen
 If you're aiming to make chilli powder or pepper flakes with your chillies, leave them to shrivel and dry up on their own on the branch before harvesting.